I sailed from Corfu to Brindisi as a deckhand on a luxury yacht when I was 20. The village is in Italy's 'heel' an the Adriatic and is home to fabulous seafood and rustic wines. It was the first time I drank a Primitivo and it was served with 'cozza racante' (mussels au gratin with pecorino). Oh Mama. The wine was dark and thickly textured. I loved its restrained intensity and I'll never forget that moment.